Inside the new wave of sustainable ingredients: Sustainability Zone highlights – Day 3

Day 3 at the Sustainability Zone Theatre continued the momentum, with a programme centred on actives and upcycled ingredients, and the many ways this growing biomass movement is reshaping our industry. New ground was also covered in controlled environment agriculture, and a major distributor shared how it is putting supplier data to work for lower-carbon formulations.

Nouryon opened with a solution targeting both hair health and formulation efficiency. Their new multi-multifunctional ingredient delivers thermal protection, frizz control, conditioner boosting, a silicone alternative, and colour retention - all in a single material. This biodegradable film former (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is COSMOS-approved and demonstrably improves hair quality, making it a versatile choice for hair dyes, leave-in conditioners, and hair masks.

Naemos brought a genuinely fresh perspective to the programme, presenting their use of controlled environment agriculture - hydroponics and aeroponics - combined with a proprietary elicitation technology called ELITE to prompt plants into producing higher concentrations of phytocompounds. The environmental credentials are impressive: up to 98% less water used in a closed-loop system, minimal land requirements, non-potable and non-agricultural water throughout the process, and solar energy powering the operation.

ELITE works by using specific combinations of climate and light conditions to trigger a stress response in the plant, stimulating the production of secondary metabolites. The results can be dramatic - a plant can produce up to seven times more niacinamide under this approach. Once ready, extraction follows green chemistry principles, using green solvents and minimising waste. Every active comes with full seed-to-extract traceability, LCA data, and standardised quality.

Inabata opened with a sobering statistic: 21% of global greenhouse gas emissions originate from farming. That context drives their focus on actives derived from upcycled biomass and biotechnology.

Their new upcycled range, Inawave, uses a proprietary extraction technology that increases yield while reducing electricity consumption. What makes this technique particularly compelling is that it not only delivers higher yields but also enables efficient extraction of actives that are notoriously difficult to obtain through standard methods - pine bark, tea leaves, and grapevine extracts among them, all showing significantly improved profiles compared to conventional extraction. Each active is supported by a thorough data dossier.

Inabata has also developed a root biotechnology platform, growing plant roots in vitro with minimal water, no pesticides, and a fraction of the land required for conventional cultivation. A standout example is hemp root extract, which contains 26 times the concentration of cannabisins found in conventional material - without THC or CBD - and has been shown to positively influence multiple longevity markers.

Univar, one of the industry's largest distribution companies, has been publishing its sustainability report since 2008. In 2025, it achieved improved EcoVadis and CDP scores by exceeding its emissions stretch targets - a meaningful milestone for a business operating at that scale.

As a chemicals distributor, Univar sits at the intersection of regulatory pressure and customer demand. Climate legislation in Europe is driving the need for supply chain transparency and decarbonisation, while customers increasingly request green alternatives supported by product carbon footprint (PCF) data. A global survey they shared revealed a significant increase in PCF data requests from customers between 2025 and 2026 alone. In response, Univar is actively supporting its suppliers in providing either PCF data or alternative validations such as certifications and biodegradability data. Currently, only a small fraction of their suppliers have provided PCF data - which means that for brands prioritising data-backed sourcing decisions, supplier selection will need to become considerably more discerning.

Kaffe Bueno returned to a theme they introduced last year: the inherent contradiction in wanting both natural ingredients and a perfectly white product. A little like wanting a colourless glass of wine - who actually wants that, and why?

To explore this, Kaffe Bueno partnered with Ayton Global Research to survey 1,002 consumers across eight markets. The findings were revealing: 69% still expect creams to be white or off-white, yet only 14% believe colour affects how well a product works. More encouragingly, 97% said they would try a naturally coloured product if it was demonstrated to be effective and natural, and 82% said they would use one if efficacy was clearly shown.

These findings are already being validated in the market. Nobe, a Finnish skincare brand with a distinctive dark brown product aesthetic, was shortlisted at Cosmoprof, and their products do not stain. Far from being a barrier, colour may represent a real opportunity - a way to stand out in a sea of indistinguishable white creams.

Bionap has built a vertically integrated, zero-waste system that transforms Sicilian food waste into skin and nutritional actives. Their portfolio is rooted in the rich agricultural heritage of the region: red orange extract, high in anthocyanins and vitamin C; olive biophenols; and prickly pear polysaccharides - each a testament to what can be achieved when the entire value of a crop is honoured.

Eurofragrance closed the day with a story of patient discovery. Their team spent considerable time identifying the optimal geographic origin for Spanish olives and fine-tuning the composition of a new captive fragrance ingredient - extracted from olive pulp, the biomass left behind after olive oil production and typically discarded. Using a green chemistry extraction process to ensure consistent composition, they found something genuinely special: a material that adds a three-dimensional enhancing effect when blended with other fragrant components. This captive will be available within Eurofragrance fragrances next year - a beautiful example of finding treasure in what others leave behind.

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