How to create inclusive cosmetic formulations for diverse skin and hair types 

As the world moves toward greater inclusivity socially, culturally and even politically, it has been a logical progression to expand inclusivity to include fashion trends and styling. But can skin and haircare formulations be made more inclusive, without compromising the desires and needs of specific consumer segments?

This article will consider where personalised versus inclusive cosmetic formulation is best utilised, as well as essential aspects that inclusive cosmetic formulas need to address.  

Cosmetic formulas have, until very recently, always been created to suit the specific needs of certain hair or skin types based very much on biological gender differences and racial stereo types.

Of course, a myriad of variance can be introduced to accommodate different brand and consumer values as well as budgets – but the concept of creating the cosmetic formulation has always been to address the needs of a specific market segment which has largely been gender and racially defined.

Traditionally, it has been widely recognised that the skin and hair needs of men and women differ, largely because of hormonal changes throughout their lifetime.

It has also been researched and proven that different races have specific skin and hair types, resulting in the need for different ingredient and cosmetic formulation approaches, to address various concerns.

To better understand how gender and race has traditionally impacted cosmetic formulation approaches, watch this video on how to formulate for different ethnic skin types.

The concept of inclusivity aims to equalise opportunities and approaches for all, regardless of their background, gender or ethnicity.

A big part of inclusivity focuses on ensuring that everyone feels respected and supported, without barriers or marginalising any subgroups of a population.

Since skin and hair care products need to address certain performance characteristics in order to be deemed effective and useful – yet fundamentally, hormonal and racial differences can alter what every person needs from their personal care – can cosmetic formulas be truly inclusive?

For example, testosterone production results in greater sebum secretion. This means someone producing higher quantities of testosterone (generally those assigned male at birth, without medical intervention), will have oilier skin and hair.

Alternatively, higher oestrogen production will result in generally more supple skin but with less sebum production and therefore less oil.

Fluctuations of hormones during a menstrual cycle (for those assigned female at birth, without medical intervention), can play havoc with the skin and hair, causing dryness, irritation or outbreaks of pimples at various times of the month, and even various stages of life. In other words, there are certain formulation and cosmetic needs that are a result of a person’s biological makeup, rather than their gender identity.

And while international travel and relocation means that we, as a society, are more racially-blended than ever, there are still environmental factors such as humidity and genetic predispositions that govern how our skin and hair will respond in different climates to various cosmetic products and ingredients.

So, how can a Cosmetic Chemist create cosmetic formulas to support more inclusive skin and hair care needs, without losing the specific functionality required by hormonal, climatic and genetic differences? 

Regardless of age, gender or ethnicity, there are core elements fundamentally required of different types of cosmetic formulas. For example:

• Cleansers need to clean. For very oily skin and clogged pores, gentle abrasives and higher foaming/cleansing agents are required; and the depth of cleansing varies through to the very dry and even sensitive skin types, which need gentler crème-based, or even oil-based, cleansing products. Note that gender is not mentioned here, but instead the functional performance characteristics. When developing inclusive cleansing products, create your cosmetic formula by targeting the depth of cleansing required, and type of surfactant that will achieve that functionality.
  
• Moisturisers need to hydrate. Common to all moisturising products is the need for hydration, which can be achieved in a non-greasy way using humectants. Humectants are the unsung hero of moisturising products, supporting even the oiliest of skin types, and are therefore an essential addition to any type of moisturising formula. Lipids such as esters, oils or silicones are needed to ensure spreadability and moisture-protection, and are what can be varied to address the diverse sensory and lasting emollient characteristics desired by more specific market sectors without needing to use gender or ethnic specific terms.

To get a better understanding of how to approach inclusive cosmetic formulations, watch this video on how to formulate gender neutral cosmetics.

In other words, if your brand wants to focus on inclusive cosmetic formulas, the product development brief needs to focus on the functional needs of the finished cosmetic formula and trending hero ingredients required of a certain age group, rather than the more traditional approach of functionality based on gender norms and racial identity.

Another approach to inclusive cosmetic formulation is for cosmetic brands to consider formulating customisable skin care. Customisable skincare uses base products which can be individualised by the addition of specific concentrates or actives to address certain consumer needs. Customisable skincare still provides empowering purchasing decisions for those looking for more inclusive skin (and hair) care approaches. 

There is no doubt, that if it were commercially possible, a consumer will benefit best from skin and haircare created specifically for their individual needs at any given stage of life and location.

Since this is not achievable, consumers will instead need to try various products marketed toward their specific hair and skin requirements, which can be accommodated in a relatively gender-neutral way.

Cosmetic brands should try to be inclusive with their marketing messages where possible, using gender-neutral terms and images focussing on the performance of the personal care product, rather than sector-specific stereotypes.

While this is very much the domain of the marketing department, it also relies on the creation of inclusive cosmetic formulas to support the desired results.

It is the hero ingredients of the cosmetic formula and its functionality that should convey the story rather than outdated characterisations that are gender or racially driven.

As Cosmetic Chemists, we need to utilise inclusive cosmetic formulation concepts (such as the approach mentioned here, or customisable cosmetic formulation approaches), along with specific active ingredients focused on specific performance attributes.

This will enable the creation of inclusive cosmetic formulations that still address the distinct outcomes desired by individuals to make the product commercially successful. 

Happy formulating! 

Want to improve your formulation skills? Attend the complimentary Formulation Lab sessions at in-cosmetics Asia (subject to status)

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