100+ fragrances, 16 scent stories
and your fragrance DNA

Yves Andre Dombrowsky at work

Perfumers are a rare species.

According to industry estimates, there are only between 1,600 and 2,000 perfumers - also known as “noses” - operating worldwide.

Gifted with heightened olfactory sense and exceptional creativity combined with chemistry, psychology and cultural understanding, their crucial role makes or breaks perfume brands.

Meet Yves André Dombrowsky, a French-trained perfumer. Thailand-based Yves has cemented his reputation over the past 25 years as one of Asia-Pacific’ most recognised fragrance specialists and is now also the Official Fragrance Zone Advisor to in-cosmetics Asia.

His work focuses on what he refers to as “aura perfumery”, in other words creating fragrances that effortlessly align with a product’s identity, packaging, texture and promise.

This year, Yves was tasked with a thrilling new challenge. Narrowing 100+ entries down to 16 scent stories that will form part of The Evolution of Fragrance, an immersive attraction within the brand new Fragrance Zone at in-cosmetics Asia.

Charting humanity’s relationship with scent across eight themes, The Evolution of Fragrance spans the origins of life and nature through spirituality, trade, art and modern living all the way to a future defined by regeneration and innovation.

Global suppliers of fragrance ingredients were invited to contribute scents that interpreted The Evolution of Fragrance’s themes in order to turn this concept into reality.

The response exceeded expectations.

Over 100 fragrances were received and, in Yves’s own words, the quality was “remarkable”.

Yves discovered unique approaches inspired by regional traditions, new ingredient technologies and olfactive directions, demonstrating craftsmanship and innovation in equal measure.

Mapping entries

The task was daunting, labour intensive, rigorous but also, utterly fascinating

Assessing perfume performance can be very subjective. The process relies on expert interpretation because scientific evidence in the field is still developing.

Yves combines his expertise with digital resources designed to map olfactory families and sub-families with a view to identifying the right scent for each product.

The evaluation comprised several phases, starting with individual assessment, from reviewing every fragrance in isolation, documenting technical execution, ingenuity, emotional appeal and, of course, suitability for the Evolution of Fragrance.

This was followed by comparison and categorisation, in an effort to identify the scents that best captured the themes.

But there was more to follow with the final phase - the most labour-intensive one.

“What I'm doing now is a real phase three for the selection process. Rechecking the conclusions of phase two with my assistant - and blogger - Joanne, comparing against my original notes when I was alone in the first phase selection” says Yves.

Joanne’s endless passion for perfume, her sharp nose and own collection of over 600 fragrances, which are regularly reviewed on TikTok, bring a fresh perspective beyond traditional skincare and perfumery.

With Joanne’s help, Yves revisited his shortlist, challenging his own earlier assumptions and finally validating decisions against initial impressions, eliminating personal bias and ensuring consistency across all categories.

The ultimate goal was curating 16 fragrances based on exceptional performance as individual compositions but also forming a compelling story and journey following The Evolution of Fragrance.

Yves and Joanne in phase three mode

Immaculate formulation skills and premium raw materials are indeed a must. But that is not enough. The strongest entries stood out by creating emotional resonance and closely following the narrative.

Certain scents reflected key concepts including Fire, Earth, Water, and Air, doing so by pairing ingredients in an unusual way.

In other cases, fragrances conveyed spirituality with contemporary takes on incense, oud, sandalwood as well as traditional aromatics whilst some other creations merged more contemporary materials with more classic perfume novelties.

But above all, the fragrances that shone brightest proved that innovation isn't just about including innovative ingredients. Rather, standout creations were the ones that revisited known materials, offering a fresh perspective, surprising sensory blends and new emotional narratives.

This trend closely reflects themes explored in The future of fragrance: Formulation innovation, functional scents and opportunities for beauty brands, where innovation increasingly revolves around functionality, mood enhancement and deeper consumer engagement.

Overall, this selection process provided valuable insights into where fragrance innovation is heading.

Yves observed nature-inspired concepts, stories focusing on sustainability and multisensory global experiences but also from fast-growing fragrance markets in Asia Pacific and the Middle East.

For suppliers based in or targeting the Southeast Asia region, the entries reflected some of the key dynamics discussed in Indonesia’s fragrance boom: Opportunities for ingredient suppliers, from rising consumer sophistication to local development and the demand for unique sensory experiences.

More traditional trade routes, sacred rituals and oud-based creations amongst the entries aligned with the Middle East. 

The 16 fragrances selected by Yves and outlined below will be showcased as part of The Evolution of Fragrance, located within the new Fragrance Zone at in-cosmetics Asia.

Visitors will have the opportunity to smell, compare and evaluate the winning creations.

As an exclusive bonus, by answering a questionnaire as they navigate their way around the attraction, visitors will receive their own personalised fragrance profile in real time.

The Evolution of Fragrance - uncover your Fragrance DNA

Register now for in-cosmetics Asia and explore the Fragrance Zone to discover compelling fragrances, meet leading suppliers and look into fragrance ingredients shaping personal care.

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