New avenues in haircare: hair exposome, latest researches & technological advances

New avenues in haircare: hair exposome, latest researches & technological advances

07 October 2020, 14:30 - 18:30

Workshop Room 1

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Co-organised by Beauty Cluster Barcelona ans Sponsored by CODIF TN

Today’s consumer dedication into hair styling and caring is driving science and industry to converge in a single stream, giving rise to a growing haircare market. This synergy is posing new strategies for the development of novel ingredients, products and technologies focused on haircare. In this regard, this workshop will highlight key drivers in hair care innovation:

  • Hair Exposome: A new concept that addresses hair disorders from an innovative perspective, analyzing hair affectations globally instead of treating them independently as has been performed up to now.
  • Scalp microbiome: Designing strategies tackling microbe communication as important players in scalp and skin health.
  • Hair and skin color regulation: Understanding mechanisms regulating pigmentation
  • Cutting-edge technologies available for hair research and analysis

14:30 - 15:30     Cradle to Grave: natural pigmentation of our hair is under powerful age-related regulation
Prof. Dr. Desmond Tobin, Professor of Dermatological Science and Director of Charles Institute of Dematology, University College Dublin

Humans are social animals that communicate disproportionately via potent genetic signals imbued in our skin and hair, including racial, ethnic, health, gender, and age status. In particular, natural hair color shows striking age-related changes, particularly in those of Eurasian origin. For example, during puberty there is often a switch from fair (blond)-colored intermediate-caliber hair to more deeply pigmented, coarser or terminal hair. Furthermore, hair fiber hetero-chromia (different color hair in different body sites) becomes more apparent with age during the 2nd-4th decades of life, most strikingly for scalp and beard. Both age-related pigmentation variations appear to have a strong hormonal and genetic origin.

Hair melanocytes appear to be more sensitive than epidermal melanocytes to aging influence; seen most dramatically in the rapid onset of hair graying ⁄ canities, compared with the very gradual change in skin pigmentation. Canities⁄graying typically first appears in our late 20s/early 30s. Paradoxicallly, some melanocytes in the epidermis may even become more melanogenically active with age, especially if previously exposed to significant UVR (e.g. age spots). This likely to reflect significant differences in the epidermal and follicular microenvironments in terms of aging mechanisms, and how they are exposed to and/or respond to oxidative stress, which not only affects melanogenesis but also melanocyte stem cell and melanocyte homeostasis and survival. There is emerging evidence that the hair pigmentary unit has regenerative potential, even after it has begun to produce white hair fibers. It may therefore be feasible to develop strategies to modulate some aging-associated changes to maintain melanin production for longer. This presentation will include our very latest understanding of this topic.

15:30 - 16:10     Scalp microbiome: A step further in the design of strategies tackling alopecia
Dr. Javier Mira, Medical Director, Lacer

One step more in alopecia study. How important is the local microbiome? It is currently accepted that the human being is formed by a large number of bacterias that make up part of our human microbiome and some human cells.

The normal coexistence between cellular systems or symbiosis helps to maintain a health homeostasis system, its imbalance or dysbiosis can cause significant alterations, both locally and systemically. How this dysbiosis can work in the scalp and more sensitive structures such as the hair follicle can mark a new strategy in alopecia, both in diagnostic and also therapeutic strategies, however altering in one way or another way this local hair microbiome may or may not have positive or even more negative effects.

Are we taking a step forward in the treatment of alopecia or not?

16:10 - 16:40     Coffe and networking break

16:40 - 17:20     Hair exposome: A concept to address hair disorders from a new perspective
Dr. Patricia Gisbert, Innovation Manager, Beauty Cluster Barcelona

The concept “exposome” refers to the total sum of the multiple exposure factors humans face throughout their lives: exposure to chemical substances, radiation, alimentation, stress… This concept was described in 2005 by Dr. Christopher P. Wild, current director of the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC).

While more is known about the relationship between the exposome and human health or certain pathologies, the effects on the skin or the human hair have not received the same attention. What are the consequences of pollution or diet for hair loss, for example? What are the endogenous and exogenous factors that determine the quality, quantity, and colour of the hair? Can an understanding of the hair exposome help to prevent hair disorders?

Hair Exposome concept addresses hair disorders from an innovative perspective, analysing the influences on hair health holistically, instead of treating signs of hair damage independently as has been the practice hitherto. This concept, promoted by Beauty Cluster Barcelona, aims to open new opportunities for collaboration between companies in the hair sector in order to develop dynamic and global solutions against the stresses to which the hair and scalp and subjected.

17:20 - 18:00     Effect of polluted water in the internal structure of hair
Dr. Alfonso Fernández, R&D Manager, Centro de Tecnología Capilar (CTC)

Because hair is always in contact with the environment, one of the most important aggressions suffered by it is pollution mainly air and water pollution. It is well-document that sea water or even hard water reduces hair wet. Moreover, diverse other pollutants and heavy metals from other could interact and deteriorate hair fibber.

There are many sources of water contamination; industrialisation and urbanisation are two of the culprits for the increased level of heavy metal water contamination. When people use this polluted water for their daily activities, the pollutants can be incorporated into the body through. different routes as for example inhalation and ingestion

Taking into account that in 2050 about one third of the world population will not have access to reliable sources of water and that clean water is not only the basic need of human being but it also has a great influence on the all aspects of human life is clear that research on products and ingredients offering protection against pollution has become an important topic.

According with this interest, in this work an ex vivo model was developed and validated to evaluate the efficacy of a new cosmetic ingredients, on the protection of keratine structure and hair physical property.

18:00 - 18:30     Rebalancing microbiota ratios to fight dandruff and sooth sensitive scalps

Dr Pierre-Yves Morvan, R&D Director, CODIF Technologie Naturelle

Microbial populations living on the skin surface play an important role in skin barrier function, and perturbation of the skin microbiota, or “dysbiosis”, is responsible for many skin conditions. So, rebalancing the skin microbiota equilibrium in an important concern for skin health.

Here we focus on dandruff, a common scalp disorders which has been associated to dysbiosis, and we present an active ingredients dedicated to rebalancing proportions between specific microbial populations and their positive effects on this condition.

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  • Prof. Dr. Desmond Tobin


    Professor of Dermatological Science and Director of Charles Institute of Dematology

    University College Dublin

    Desmond Tobin is Professor of Dermatology at UCD School of Medicine and Director of the Charles Institute of Dermatology, University College Dublin...

  • Dr. Alfonso Fernández


    R&D Manager

    Centro de Tecnología Capilar (CTC)

    Alfonso has a PhD in chemical sciences from the University of Barcelona since 2005. From that year he obtained a postdoctoral scholarship from the...

  • Dr. Patricia Gisbert


    Innovation Manager

    Beauty Cluster Barcelona

    Innovation manager at Beauty Cluster Barcelona. Principal duties: scientific assessment, project management, technological surveillance, and company...

  • Dr. Javier Mira


    Medical Director


    Dr Javier Mira Otal has a degree and doctorate in Medicine and Surgery from the Central University of Barcelona, specialty in Internal Medicine and a...

  • Dr. Pierre-Yves Morvan


    R&D Director


    Dr Pierre-Yves MORVAN has a Master in Biochemistry and a PhD in Biology. He has joined the French company CODIF INTERNATIONAL in 1997 to develop the...


Beauty Cluster Barcelona

CODIF Technologie Naturelle