Science meets nature: chemistry, A.I. and molecular physiological platforms for the rational design of performing natural cosmetic products

Science meets nature: chemistry, A.I. and molecular physiological platforms for the rational design of performing natural cosmetic products

03 April 2019, 09:00 - 12:30

Workshop Room 1

There is a widespread perception the world of natural cosmetic products and ingredients is more driven by folklore belief than science.

This Workshop will demonstrate the science behind natural ingredients and show that it is possible to formulate highly performing green cosmetic products that deliver tangible and measurable skin benefits.

Academicians from world-class Universities will engage the audience in lectures on the Chemistry behind natural molecules, the use of Artificial Intelligence and Multivariate Analysis for discovery of phytochemical complexes, the development of  Molecular Physiological Platforms for the investigation of the efficacy of natural products and ultimately on how principles of Rational Design can be applied to formulate natural ingredients.

09:00 - 09:10     Introduction
Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda MChem PhD FRSC, Skincare Technical Manager, Oriflame

09:10 - 09:45     The chemistry of natural products and their extraction
Prof. Chris Rayner, Professor of Organic Chemistry, University of Leeds

Nature produces a vast array of chemical compounds which have evolved through exquisite mechanisms of biosynthesis to produce complex structures capable of one or multiple functions to benefit their host. These functions are usually associated with finely tuned reactivity of the natural products, or their intricate interaction with complex biomolecules, such as proteins and nucleic acids. Harnessing these properties in environments in which they can be exploited to the benefit of mankind really unmasks the true potential of this source of functional materials. Applications can be in areas as diverse as lifesaving drugs, biopolymers, and cosmetics. Examples will be given for a variety of application areas developed in my research group in Leeds, including extracts used in cosmetics products.

See Prof. Chris Rayner full abstract

09:45 - 10:20     Artificial intelligence and multivariate analyses to predict, find and interpret the bioactivities of complex natural products with cosmeceutical interest
Prof. Jose Prieto, Department of Pharmaceutical and Biological Chemistry, University College London

Complex Chemical Entities (CCE) include natural products such as Herbal crude extracts, herbal semi purified fractions and Essential oils (EOs). These are vastly used as active principles (APIs) adding ‘functionality’ to many cosmeceuticals. However, the intrinsic variability of their composition and synergisms and antagonisms between major and minor components makes difficult to ensure consistent effects through different batches. 

See Prof. Jose Prieto full abstract

10:20 - 10:50     Coffee & networking break

10:50 - 11:25     Development of integrated cell & molecular physiological platforms to investigate the efficacy of natural products on health; in vivo, in vitro and organotypic model approaches
Prof. Ronan Murphy, Deputy Head, Dublin City University

It has been asserted that clinical trials hold the answer to questions about the beneficial effects of bio-functional natural products on human health, including that of skin. This is not a simple case and in fact is quiet complex. Clinical trials give us rigorous answers to restricted questions and were developed for therapeutic situations to determine which treatment was better for curing a specific disease. Rarely can more than one or two substances be tested, usually at a single dose. Subjects have to be persons with pre-existing conditions or an extremely high risk of the disease in question.

See Prof. Ronan Murphy full abstract

11:25 - 12:00     Rational formulation design – Focus on natural and natural-derived ingredients
Prof. Majella Lane, Director - Skin Research Group, University College London

This presentation will discuss the necessity to understand the fate of the formulation components as well as the active once applied onto skin. Recent data confirm that the residence time of the formulation constituents can have a profound impact on the fate of the active. Approaches to identify the ideal vehicle for skin delivery will be considered critically.

See Prof. Majella Lane full abstract

12:00 - 12:30     Panel discussion and conclusion


  • Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda MChem PhD FRSC


    Skincare Technical Manager


    Andrea is a Chartered Chemist and holds a PhD in Polymer & Colloid Chemistry, a MChem in Industrial & Applied Chemistry and a Diploma in Innovation...

  • Prof. Ronan Murphy


    Deputy Head

    Dublin City University

    EducationUniversity of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, UK (2010) Advanced Flow Cytometry. Max Plank Institute for Cell & Molecular Biology, Dresden, Germany...

  • Prof. Majella Lane


    Director, Skin Research Group

    University College London

    Dr. Lane's areas of expertise include delivery of actives to the skin, biophysical approaches towards the elucidation of active-excipient and...

  • Prof. Jose Prieto


    Department of Pharmaceutical and Biological Chemistry

    University College London

    Dr Jose M Prieto read Pharmacy (1993) and obtained a PhD in Pharmacology (2001) at the University of Valencia (Valencia, Spain) in the field of skin...

  • Prof. Chris Rayner


    Professor of Organic Chemistry

    University of Leeds

    Chris Rayner is Professor of Organic Chemistry at the University of Leeds. He has over 30 years of experience in natural product chemistry research,...

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