How to address the challenges in standardization of natural raw ingredients

How to address the challenges in standardization of natural raw ingredients

18 April 2018, 09:00 - 12:30

Workshop Room G102 - G103

Natural compounds extracted from various plants parts present a challenge of standardization to their various components. In recent years, with the rapid and significant growth of this market formulators are presented with the difficulty of confirming the identity of the ingredients, their standardization profile, batch to batch consistency and prospective safety and efficacy profiles.

Adding to the struggle is confusion with regards to permitted claims for this market. Cosmetic manufacturers are phased with the questions:  What does “natural” mean? Can a cosmetic product be 100% natural and organic? What are the consumer’s perception and expectations about “natural”?Are there true “natural” preservatives, fragrances and emulsifiers? Can natural products be safe and effective?

This session speakers are experts in the field of natural chemical analysis. It will include guidance to industry professionals with regards to natural products sourcing, traceability, chemistry and identification as well as an overview claims and perspectives associated with this growing market.

Who should attend: Professionals in the cosmetic and personal care industry who develop raw materials and/or finished products with natural compounds in the areas of: research and development, formulations, sales and marketing, safety and efficacy, production/QC/QA/regulatory, supply chain

09:00 - 09:40     Natural cosmetic products- importance of authentication in safety assessment
Nava Dayan Ph.D. Owner, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC

In the food industry labeling a product “natural” turned to be one the most profitable strategies. This attractive claim gave rise to launch of variety of products that their “natural” origin and composition may be questionable and dependent upon one’s definition of the term and understanding of the concept.

The FDA has defined “natural: in a regulation from 1993 as “nothing artificial or synthetic (including all color additives regardless of source) has been included in, or has been added to, a food that would not normally be expected to be in the food”. With great advancement in plant extraction and processing, bacteria and fermentation technologies this definition may not be helpful. A wave of litigations involving false advertisement claims based on bioengineered ingredients triggered the FDA to seek public assistance. Through February 10th 2016 FDA has been seeking public’s opinion on whether defining “natural” is appropriate and if so how it should be defined.

The term “natural” is sometimes being mistakenly associated with “safe”. But in fact, in many cases, natural products can pose additional risk factors when compared to synthetic. The most critical aspect is their composition breakdown. When pure synthetic compound is evaluated, assessor is basing his assessment on the nature of its chemistry. However, with natural products, the composition if often not fully studied or revealed and when does, it is complicated and contains variety of components.

Batch to batch consistency, processing aids, extraction solvents, use of pesticides, heavy metals and microbial burden are additional risk factors. It is also occasionally speculated that if a compound is edible it is safe to apply topically. This is inaccurate since the digesting system is a very different organ when compared to skin and a specific customized study panel should be considered in the evaluation of edible natural compounds that are applied to skin.

My talk will explain basic aspects in skin toxicology and will delve into the specific aspects that are to be considered when evaluating safety of natural products in skin care products.

09:40 - 10:40     Quality and compositional analysis of aloe vera leaf products - Case study
Kan He, Ph. D., Sr. Principal Scientist, Botanical Development, Worldwide R&D, Herbalife International of America

Commercial aloe products which are made from the Aloe vera leaves have been widely used in the food, dietary supplement, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. A number of analytical methods for the determination of the chemical composition of Aloe vera can be found in various publications, but the quality control of aloe leaf products remain challenging due to the complicated biomatrixes of Aloe vera plant.

The major chemical components of aloe vera products are minerals, organic acids, sugars, and polysaccharides. Aloe polysaccharides, especially the acetylated polysaccharides, called Acemannan, are considered to be one of the most important active components of aloe and have been studied extensively for their structure, composition and biological activities. The quality control of the aloe leaf and the commercial aloe products are also focused on Acemannan.

This presentation will provide a review of the major chemical components reported for Aloe vera and the relevant analytical methods associated with the determination of these compounds.  The analysis of aloe polysaccharides including their composition, quantitation and molecular weight determination will be discussed. The goal of this presentation is to provide a better understanding and definition of the authenticity and quality of Aloe vera for improved quality control of commercial Aloe vera derived products.

10:40 - 11:00     Coffee and networking break

11:00 - 12:00     Analytical characterization techniques (LC-UV-MS) for analyzing botanicals
Falk-Thilo Ferse, European Business Development Manager, Chemical Materials, Waters GmbH

Botanical extracts can be challenging to analyze due to inherent chemical component variability (sample-to-sample) and due to physio-chemical characteristics that make chemical components invisible to some forms of detection.

This presentation will discuss LC-UV-MS methodologies for separating botanical extracts into simpler mixtures followed by appropriate detection technologies.

12:00 - 12:30     Roundtable discussion and Q&A


  • Nava Dayan



    Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C

    Nava Dayan Ph.D. Pharm has 25 years of experience in skin care segment, and has yielded more than 150 publication credits in numerous...

  • Dr. Kan He


    Sr. Principal Scientist, Botanical Development, Worldwide R&D

    Herbalife International of America

    Kan He is a Sr. Principal Scientist at Herbalife Botanical Research and Ingredient Development. He is responsible for botanical ingredient research...

  • Falk-Thilo Ferse


    European Business Development Manager, Chemical Materials

    Waters GmbH

    Falk-Thilo Ferse is a European Business Development Manager at Waters Corporation and consult with the Chemical Industry to solve analytical...

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