New trends in cosmetic technology

New trends in cosmetic technology

17 April 2018, 13:30 - 17:20

Workshop Room G104 - G105

The cosmetic industry has always been heavily R&D and Innovation driven with a strong focus on cross-functionality.

This Workshop aims at exploring some of the newest and most exciting technical trends that can help scientists be even more innovative and high-tech.

We will learn that:

  • Powerful active ingredients can be produced from waste materials, rather than depleting vital food resources.
  • A.I. and Genomics can be fruitfully used in cosmetics capitalising on experience in food science.
  • Minerals can be engineered to help deliver actives more efficaciously thus enabling formulators to optimise the product performance.
  • Research groups are working on innovative wearable technologies that can detect hydration through the measure of volatile components of the skin.
  • There may be a new, more holistic way to address ageing that is “better” than simply being “anti”.


Moderated by Paolo Camattari, Oriflame

13:30 - 13:35     WELCOME
Paolo Camattari, Oriflame

13:35 - 14:05     Recycling natural by-products from food and agriculture waste into powerful active ingredients for cosmetic applications
Giorgio Dell’Acqua, General Director, Dellacqua Consulting

The personal care industry is increasingly seeking sustainable ingredients. The reduction of an ingredient’s carbon footprint through improvement of waste management is becoming a necessary step in the product development cycle. Recycling natural by-products or waste from the food industry into safe and efficacious cosmetic ingredients is a sustainable option for ingredient suppliers. These natural by-products, once optimized for use in cosmetic products, can have multiple applications.

14:05 - 14:35     Does the combination of Artificial Intelligence and Genomics hold the key to reversing ageing
Neil Foster, Head of Strategic Partnerships, Nuritas

Technology advances are disrupting industry after industry and no technology threatens to be more disruptive than Artificial Intelligence; from driver-less vehicles and replacing the family doctor to the more extreme visions of self-aware robots intent of destroying the human race. Nuritas have developed a technology that combines artificial intelligence with genomics to discover new targeted bioactive peptides from within nature.

14:35 - 15:05     Hydrotalcites: a new technology for innovative active ingredients
Michele Sisani, R&D Director, Prolabin & Tefarm S.r.l.

Layered double hydroxide (LDHs) are clays with positively charged layers and charge-balancing exchangeable anions located in the interlayer region. Synthetic LDHs have attracted special attention because of their easily tuning chemical composition, biocompatibility and lack of toxicity [1]. LDHs has been used as carrier [2] of drugs, aminoacids and antibiotics, showing good results in terms of controlled release, drug loading and protection of labile biomolecules.

Prolabin & Tefarm has developed innovative and green synthesis methods that allows the production of new active ingredients intercalated with very high loading (up to 50 wt%) into the layered structure of LDHs.

15:05 - 15:35     Coffee and networking break

15:35 - 16:10     Leadership in microbiomics for cosmetics
Denis Wahler, Global Manager Technology Partnerships, Givaudan Active Beauty

Skin microbiomes are very diverse communities of microorganisms which live on the deserts of our fore-arms or calves, the tropical forests of our armpits, or the abundant plains of our forehead or cheeks. With the advent of metagenome and biogenetic technologies, researchers were able to measure the importance of skin microbiome in hygiene and personal care, and cosmetic scientists are now turning it into an una-voidable solution for beauty and well-being. But communication to the consumer is key and their adoption of the products comes with their education.

As the only fragrance company with in-house microbiome research capabilities, Givaudan remains commit-ted to the development of new, innovative, cosmetic ingredients that push the boundaries of the microbi-ome trend. From probiotics and prebiotics from gut microbiota research that promote beneficial effects to the skin, to skin microbiota-protective actives and to more sophisticated cosmetic precursors activated by our skin microbes developed by Givaudan’s Applied Microbiomics Centre of Excellence, microbiota ap-proach is part of future formulations.

Learn of what’s happening at Givaudan Active Beauty and discover how to address consumers’ requests and needs on the skin microbiome as a full player in beauty and well-being.

16:10 - 16:40     Wearable tools for non-invasive investigation of skin chemistry
Emer Duffy, School of Chemical Sciences, National Centre for Sensor Research, Dublin City University

There is increasing interest in the development of non-invasive tools for investigating the properties of skin, as they promise non-destructive sampling, reduced ethical concerns and comparability of results in vivo and in vitro. Wearable samplers for profiling skin volatile species with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis, and wearable impedance-based tattoo sensors for assessment of the electrical properties of skin have been applied to study skin chemistry in human participants and human skin equivalents. Skin volatiles derive from glandular secretions and the microbiome, thus individual chemical profiles can vary widely according to age, skin flora and various pathological conditions.  

16:40 - 17:10     Is better-ageing the new anti-ageing? "Green" as a way to a holistic concept of ageing
Andrea Mitarotonda, Chief Research & Innovation Officer, Neal's Yard Remedies

For many years cosmetic scientists have been focusing their efforts in delivering the ultimate anti-ageing product. But what is the true meaning of “anti-ageing”? Is this not a contradiction in terms? Should cosmetic products not tackle different aspects of “ageing”, including for example emotions and stress? What is the role of the brain in the process of skin ageing? How does the brain affect the skin?

The Author will present a case study showing how the development of innovative & sustainable natural ingredients led to the creation of topical products that offer a more holistic approach to “better-ageing”.

17:10 - 17:20     CONCLUSIONS



  • Paolo Camattari


    Formulation Technology Manager


    After obtaining a bachelor degree in Chemistry at the “Universta’ degli Studi” (Milano, Italy), Paolo’s career in cosmetics started by working as...

  • Giorgio Dell’Acqua



    Dellacqua Consulting

    Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD, is a consultant for the personal care industry. He is the scientific director for Akott Evolution, an Italian multinational...

  • Neil Foster


    Head of Strategic Partnerships


    Neil probably never thought he would end up on a stage giving a presentation at a prestigious cosmetics event. His first love is and always has been...

  • Michele Sisani


    R&D Director

    Prolabin & Tefarm S.r.l.

    Dr. Michele Sisani (M) was born in 1978. He took his degree in Chemistry in 2004. He obtained his PhD in Chemistry in 2008 at the University of...

  • Denis Wahler


    Global Manager Technology Partnerships

    Givaudan Active Beauty

    An experienced manager for collaborative research and development, Denis is in charge of Technology Partnerships within the Active Beauty business...

  • Emer Duffy



    School of Chemical Sciences, National Centre for Sensor Research, Dublin City University

    Emer Duffy is a research professional with a strong background in analytical chemistry and materials science. She was awarded a PhD by the University...

  • Andrea Mitarotonda


    Chief Research & Innovation Officer

    Neal's Yard Remedies

    Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda is a Chartered Chemist and holds a PhD in Polymer & Colloid Chemistry, an MSc in Industrial & Applied Chemistry and a Diploma...

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