Suncare protection - The skin and the electromagnetic spectrum

Suncare protection - The skin and the electromagnetic spectrum

17 April 2018, 09:00 - 12:40

Workshop Room G102 - G103

09:00 - 09:10     Workshop introduction
Dr. Karl Lintner, President, KAL'IDEES

The big questions are, as always: what’s new in the field of protecting the skin against the radiation of the electromagnetic spectrum? Will we need regulatory action about blue light and infrared irradiation claims ? How can we measure the impact and the efficacy of anti-EMR products and claims in innovative ways? What are the latest developments in such protective ingredients?

09:10 - 09:45     News around the world on skin protection against radiation (in vitro, in vivo); what about regulatory changes? 
Dr. Marc Pissavini, Director of Basic & Applied Research, Coty

A large number of experts have been working for several years to develop international standards for sunscreen products within ISO. Although some are already published and widely used, they are regularly updated. This is the case this year for the in vivo UVA and UVB methods as well as for the in vitro UVA method. But 2018 should also see the official birth of the long-awaited method of SPF in vitro.

09:45 - 10:20     Non-invasive in vivo SPF testing by HDRS - Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy
Dr. Mathias Rohr, Director, Institut Dr Schrader Hautphysiologie

The new HDRS technique is defined by a combination of in vivo diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS) and in vitro testing of sunscreens according to ISO 24443. Using a Bentham reflectance spectrometer a sensitivity of about 6 OD is realized for in vivo measurements on the skin. This enables sunscreens testing up to a label SPF 50+ without generation of erythema. The new HDRS-technique as well as correlating data of SPF-HDRS and SPF-ISO24444 of a huge variability of sunscreen formulations are presented. Finally an excellent correlation found for SPF and UVA-PF defines the future of in vivo SPF testing.

10:20 - 10:55     Skin aging, out of the blue?
Dr. Rolf Schütz, Study Director, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd

The potential risks of visible light and especially blue light to humans are a subject of increasing debate nowadays. Visible light (400 – 700 nm) accounts for around 50% of solar light energy. It penetrates deeply into biological tissue, i.e. about 20% reaches the hypodermis. It has been estimated that the level of ROS generation is around 50% for visible light. Especially high-energy visible light (HEV 400 – 450 nm), or blue light (400 – 500 nm), is suspected to harm biological tissue.

The current knowledge about the impact of blue light on biological tissues indicates that oxidative stress triggers various adverse biological effects, including weakening of the epidermal barrier, hyperpigmentation, and damage to the extracellular matrix leading to accelerated aging. In this talk, the relevance of blue light emissions from sunlight and artificial sources will be discussed.

The biological effects between UVA and blue light will be compared. Skin chromophores such as carotenoids absorb blue light specifically. Degradation of β-carotene was demonstrated on PMMA plates and could be utilized as simple in vitro model to screen for protective compounds. The identified compounds were evaluated for claim substantiation on an ex vivo model where blue-light induced ROS formation and protein carbonylation was prevented by a combination of long-range UV filters, antioxidants and skin actives. Our data provides further evidence that visible light, and in particular blue light, can promote harmful effects like oxidative damage in skin. Prevention, protection and regeneration by cosmetic ingredients are therefore proposed to answer the increasing demand from the market about protecting skin against sun-induced aging. 

10:55 - 11:20     Coffee and networking break

11:20 - 11:55     Everything gives you cancer…?
Dr. Paul Matts, Research Fellow, P&G

Just as we are congratulating ourselves over addressing protection from radiation in the ultra-violet waveband, some are now calling for protection from other wavelengths. Could exposure to visible light, infrared radiation, micro-waves or radio-waves also be causing acute or chronic skin damage? If so, is it truly of clinical or consumer significance? This presentation will discuss and weigh the evidence and comment on ways forward in this emerging area of research.

11:55 - 12:30     New in vitro method to assess if your sunscreens are infra-ready?
Sebastien Miksa, General Manager, Helioscreen

Today, sun protection is generally accepted as a part of everyday life. This is due in part to the increased incidence in the number of skin cancers, as well as awareness campaigns. As such, more and more consumers demand efficient sun protection. They expect sunscreens to provide good UV protection, since overexposure to UVB and UVA leads to sunburn, premature skin aging and, potentially, the development of cancer. They also look for sun protection with added characteristics, such as Blue Light protection, Wet Skin Application, Infrared (IR) protection, etc.

Concerning the latest, research has highlighted the potentially harmful effects of IR, including: inflammation; heat damage; photoaging; the formation of free radicals; etc. On the contrary, some research demonstrates IR radiation can benefit humans, including: health care for blood circulation and to boost healing; better skin preparation for upcoming insults, etc. It may therefore be the case that similar to UV, the devil is in the dose, and relative protection can be effective regardless of the benefits or detriments IR has on skin and the debate is still in course.

Nevertheless, considering that more and more sun care products are claiming IR protection and in light of the precautionary principle, it is important for product developers to standardize the parameters by which their products are tested to substantiate this claim and to compare products between them in reliable and constant manner. As such, an in vitro method is required that can assess the IR protection of sunscreens; this was the focus of the present work.

12:30 - 12:40     Wrap-up and discussion
Dr. Karl Lintner, President, KAL'IDEES


  • Dr. Karl Lintner




    Dr. Karl LINTNER obtained a Degree in Chemical Engineering from Vienna University (Austria) and a PhD in Biochemistry from the same University. After...

  • Dr. Marc Pissavini


    Director of Basic & Applied Research

    Coty Lancaster

    Dr. Marc Pissavini owns a PhD in chemistry. He started his career in the cosmetic industry in the field of analytical chemistry in 1997 then joined...

  • Dr. Mathias Rohr



    Institut Dr Schrader Hautphysiologie

    Dr Mathias Rohr gained a Physics degree from the University of Göttingen in 1988, and followed this in 1991 with a PhD in Physics / Biophysics at Max...

  • Dr. Rolf Schütz


    Study Director

    DSM Nutritional Products Ltd

    Rolf Schütz is a Study Director for external orientation at R&D Personal Care, DSM Nutritional Products, Switzerland, and, more recently, Scientific...

  • Dr. Paul Matts


    Research Fellow

    Procter & Gamble

    Paul joined Procter & Gamble 1988 and has spent the majority of his career in R&D conducting research and developing methods to feed the technology...

  • Sébastien Miksa


    General Manager


    Sébastien MIKSA started his career at L’Oréal in R&I Lipstick, R&I Foundation and R&I Photoprotection departments and gained in parallel a Chemistry...

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