Recently COSSMA carried out a survey amongst cosmetics developers,
asking the question "What do you consider to be the most innovative
active ingredients at the moment?"
For Dr. Thomas Förster of Henkel the following actives are setting the
trend: hair-identical keratins that penetrate deep into the hair and
significantly slow down its ageing process; proteolipids that renew the
damaged surface of the hair; super-fruits and new plant oils (such as
grape oil obtained from renewable sources) because of their high level
of hair-care performance, silver lactate with its antimicrobial action; a
complex based on an extract of apple stem cells that has a positive
effect on the activity of human stem cells in the process of skin
regeneration; and new types of collagen derivatives that can be applied
via a hairspray and which enhance hair volume.
He sums up the position as follows, "Hair care actives are becoming
more and more specific, as can be seen in the example of the
hair-identical keratins. Biological actions, such as activating the stem
cells, are also on the increase, and the whole area of sustainability
and natural origin is taking a firm hold as one of the criteria for
selecting a particular active ingredient.“
Andrea Weber, head of development at Dr. Babor, sees actives that
stimulate the skin's own natural substances, that boost the synthesis of
hyaluronic acid or other important components of the skin, as exciting
With regard to the "natural" megatrend Imke Schmidt, development and
production director at Haka Kunz, points out that there have never been
so many PEG-free emulsifiers and preservatives of natural origin. Today
it is much, much easier to formulate sustainable, active cosmetics".
However: before a new product concept is fully developed and brought to
market one should always bear in mind that, according to Wolfgang
Twardawa of the GfK, 70 percent of all innovations are flops! But why?
Because they are recognised by the consumer as no more than superficial
innovations, and are mercilessly dumped.
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