Sun care is a constant among dynamic consumer trends, whether in the form of anti-aging and even skin tone products; as an added benefit to color cosmetics; or as straightforward sunscreens for both skin and hair. However, this category poses several issues to product developers. Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) recently asked its audience, “What are the biggest challenges in sun care formulating?” Following are some of your responses — many of which you might expect.
• “Achieving what marketing wants while complying with regulations and making sunscreens esthetically pleasing (so consumers will use them).”
• “The lack of international harmonization in UV filters, UVA testing and labeling.”
• “Obtaining affordable SPF and now, spectrum testing.”
• “The sometimes contradicting combination of requirements by customers;” for example: meeting the targeted claim within the cost parameters, in formulations that also boost efficacy and appeal sensory-wise to the consumer. In addition, there is the need for product differentiation, e.g., with non-UV filter ingredients.
These issues are not new, so why are they not yet resolved? Perhaps because regulations and consumer demand are moving targets, which are difficult to hit. In addition, the methods to test for SPF are unrealistic, as renowned sun protection expert Brian Diffey, PhD, will discuss in the February 2012 issue of C&T. So how can sun care formulators develop products to hit these moving targets? Since consumer fears and safety concerns underlie most regulatory action, one could theoretically remain a step ahead by predicting consumer behavior. I do not own a crystal ball and my tarot deck is a bit dusty, so I cannot tell you what consumers will do or want next.
I can tell you, though, that products that gain the most consumer attention stand out by incorporating step-change innovations. So where are these innovations found? I think the answer lies in looking beyond the obvious or known, and not just at successes, but also failures. Take one of my favorite failure-based successes: champagne. While attempts were initially made to remove its dancing bubbles, once they gained consumer acceptance, demand for the product remained steady and has since the 17th century. Imagine product loyalty like that.