Simply focusing on the reduction of wrinkles is a thing of the past as actives now claim a more global action targeting face volumes. Alternately firming or plumping, suppliers are redoubling their ingenuity to rebuild the skin matrix support from every angle.
Actives are not the only ones to claim having a 3D action, new formulations now also feature new sensory properties. Formulas become more lively and interactive upon contact with the skin. Hence, Stéarinerie Dubois has imagined skin care like a chiselled jewel. The combination of the plant ester DUB ZENOAT (a silicone alternative) with the texturing esters DUB PTS and DUB DPHCC with an ultra-thin skin feel, with its "second skin" effect gives the product smoothing and moisturising properties. As for NatureVgel, DKSH's excipient, it structures oils by creating a very surprising rebounding effect in emulsions and anhydrous products. It also creates 3D effects on the thickness of the applied film keeping pigments on the skin and creating a cosy cushion effect during spreading. For its part, Shin Etsu (distributed by DKSH) proposes emulsifying elastomer gels (KSG-210) enabling with their three-dimensional structure, to built networks of droplet with a homogeneous size distribution for the construction of 3D textures while stabilizing W/Si and W/O emulsions. As a result, upon application, the emulsion releases its water content for a guaranteed moisturising effect.
Finally, at Solabia, formulas can be enriched with their Solapearls®, anti-pollution smoothing skinbeads, and UV protective. These are beads made of calcium alginate and Glycofilm® 1.5p which are incorporated into Solagel 1%, a polysaccharide interactive suspension gel customizable by the customer. A whole programme!
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