16 April 2013, 14:00 - 18:00

Espace 2000


Find out about the latest ingredient trends, what’s new in cutaneous ageing, how Asian and Caucasian skin differs and how to formulate effective anti-ageing products. Discuss new instrumental techniques to evaluate their efficacy.

14:00 – 14:40
Anti aging ingredients new trends
Pierrick Dutton & Nikola Matic, Kline Group

Consumers' desire to see visible results has raised expectations for genuine efficacy of personal care products, rendering functionality an increasingly imperative factor. This holds particularly true for the vibrant anti-aging skin care segment. Anti-aging is also the single largest product type in the global beauty market and a key growth engine for the entire industry.

This presentation by Pierrick Dutton and Nikola Matic, experts from Kline's Personal Care Products and Chemicals practices, respectively, will bring you insights from both sides of the market - end product and personal care ingredients - and will closely look at the innovative high-tech anti-aging focused actives and forthcoming trends and growth opportunities in the skin care finished goods market.

14:40 – 15:15
Cutaneous aging: what happens?
Gabrielle Sore, Ph.D. L’Oreal

The process of skin aging induces changes that are usually classified as either photo induced, chronological or hormonal. All of them affect texture, shape and color of the face. Skin texture is mainly determined by wrinkles which arise from epidermal and dermal atrophy, elastosis and collagen modifications. Changes of facial shape are mainly linked to evolution of bones and soft tissues, and noticeable effects of gravity. Skin color is mainly related to skin pigmentation disorders and the structure of the dermis. All these changes result from molecular, cellular and tissular modifications which can be studied by many tools like reconstructed skin, “omics”, immuno-histochemistry and biphotonic microscopy. They allow noticing biological modifications and identifying new biological targets for cosmetic products.

15:15 – 15:50
Comparison of aging between Asian and Caucasian skin 
Alain Khaiat, Ph.D. Seers Consulting

A multi-center study aimed to determine existing conditions of Asian as well as Caucasian facial skin via in vivo instrumental, dermatologist and subject self-assessments:  837 female subjects from eight Asian cities (106 in Sendai, Japan; 116 in Seoul, South Korea; 100 in Guangzhou, 100 in Shanghai, 106 in Harbin, China; 100 in Manila, Philippines; 107 in Calicut and 100 in New Delhi, India) as well as 84 from USA belonging to 4 different age groups – 14-20, 25-40, 55-60 and 65-75 years old – were evaluated during summer.  Repeat measurements were done during winter in 6 cities (Sendai, Seoul, Shanghai, Harbin, New Delhi and New Jersey).  

Results showed high correlation of wrinkling and laxity with age, among all other aging parameters evaluated by the dermatologist. All these information are useful in understanding similarities and differences of the Asian skin as compared to other populations from other regions; necessary information in determining suitable therapy or skincare products for this particular population.

16:05 – 16:40
Formulating effective anti aging products 
Noble Mathew, Johnson & Johnson

This paper aims to share basic principles in designing an effective anti-ageing product formulation based on the understanding of skin ageing, formulation chemistry and consumer understanding. The presentation will discuss the need to deliver against the rational and emotional needs of consumers, as well as provide tips on how to manage consumer’s expectations both, short and long term.

16:40 – 17:15
New techniques to evaluate the efficacy of anti aging products 
Anne Sirvent, Dermscan

In the context of an ever aging population, the quest for rejuvenation has become more topical than ever and the anti-aging market is booming.  In order to maintain a youthful appearance, cosmetic products are the most popular and most used treatments. They have become increasingly high-tech, targeting very specific cellular phenomenon responsible for cutaneous aging. Furthermore, a growing number of people also seek esthetic improvement through minimally invasive procedures. Nowadays, these techniques are becoming more and more popular as it could offer rapid cosmetic enhancement without the cost and recovery time associated with more heavy procedures.

In order to evaluate the efficacy of all these anti-ageing treatments, consumers are waiting for objective and accurate techniques.

The presentation will detail the last approaches developed in order to quantify, directly on subjects, wrinkles, ptosis, tissue elasticity, color heterogeneity (linked to pigmentary and vascular impairments) and skin texture alterations (due to spots, sebum and pores enlargement). Thanks to the evolution of imaging technologies, deeper cutaneous alterations occurring in the dermis can also be investigated through non-invasive measurements.

17:15- 17:50
Skin Aging Atlas: ethnic differences
Roland Bazin, RB Consulting

Human facial skin is characterised by various regions which are controlled by a complex cutaneous muscular network. This structure allows humans to exhibit social behaviours such as facial expression, which communicates emotions and functional movements required for vital activities including nourishing, breathing, vision or speech. The uninterrupted movements throughout life, associated with the force of gravity and sun exposure are responsible for progressive marks of time, wrinkles, sagging skin, age spots and unsightly redness etc.

In the beauty business, assessing the performance of a surgical, dermatological or cosmetic treatment is a relatively recent approach. For about thirty years, the increasing demand for objective proof has led to the research in instrumental, psycho-sensorial and clinical evaluation tools.

The precise evaluation of facial ageing and its correction by plastic surgery, aesthetic dermatology or cosmetic products can be improved by use of standardized tools.

This presentation describes the Clinical face Atlas, a descriptive knowledge tool.

An atlas for skin ageing uses a graded scale to describe how a clinical sign, such as a line, sagging of the face or a blemish, worsens over time. The procedure for building such an atlas, the description of the different signs for gender and several ethnic populations (Caucasian, Asian and Afro American) will be discussed. Some examples of results obtained with this tool will be also presented.

17:50 – 18:00


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