Cosmetic Microbiology

Cosmetic Microbiology

17 April 2013, 14:00 - 18:00

Espace 2000


Gain a valuable insight into the world of microorganisms, including microbiological analysis, preservatives, biocides, plant management and the use of microorganisms to produce novel ingredients for the cosmetics industry.

14:00 - 14:10

14:10 - 14:45
Evolution, genetics, ecology and features of microorganisms: C, O, H, N, S, P + oligoelements + energy
Florian Weighardt, TeknoScienze Srl.

Microorganisms are not a defined class of organisms; they include prokaryotes, i.e. bacteria and archaea, and eukaryotes, i.e. fungi (yeast), algae, protozoa, etc. 

Microorganisms, in particular prokaryotes, were able during evolution to adapt to nearly all environments found in nature, from extreme environments in terms of temperature, radiations, salinity, pH value, presence/absence of oxygen, presence of toxic compounds, etc., to “normal” environments. Most of them are able so synthesize all compounds they need starting from simple sources of chemical energy and elementary sources of few elements like carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulphur, phosphate and some more rare elements. 

Microorganisms are at the basis of all ecological systems. Several of them can live in symbiotic relationships with other organisms or be pathogens. They are able to produce complex molecules, or degrade complex molecules to their building stones. 

We usually consider bacteria and other microorganisms as primitive and simple. Nevertheless, we have to consider that they are the most antique forms of life on earth and that most of them have high replication rates allowing them to generate within hours of extremely big populations. This high plasticity of has its drawbacks since they are able to develop resistances to antibiotics and other biocides. 

Last but not least, microbiology is at the basis of biotechnology. 

14:45 - 15:20
Microbial Challenge Testing of Cosmetics
Wolfgang Siegert, Schülke & Mayr GmbH

Cosmetic products should be safe under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use. While the regulation on cosmetic products (EC 1223/2009) [2] requires that the cosmetic product safety report demonstrates the results of preservation challenge test to prove the microbiological stability, it does not specify the test procedure for the challenge test. Beside the test from the EU and US pharmacopoeia, the Personal Care Products Council, the ASEAN Cosmetics Association, in-house test protocols are established since many years. A new method, the first edition of ISO 11930 was published in April 2012 under the title “Cosmetics - Microbiology - Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product”. This paper will examine the comparability of these methods. 

15:20 - 15:55
Preservatives – State of the art and trends
Christine Oleschkewitz, Schülke & Mayr GmbH

Formulators are aware of the necessity to adequately preserve their products in order to ensure product safety and be in compliance with the respective legislations. This task is made much more difficult when legal and marketing requirements are added to the various factors influencing the preservative choice. During the last decade the number of accepted preservative actives is noticeable shrinking. Increasing legal and marketing pressure has resulted in an interest in reducing the amount of traditional preservatives in cosmetic formulations or in finding novel ways to keep cosmetic products microbiologically stable. 

The presentation will give an updated overview about preservatives under public discussion including technical, toxicological as well as legal aspects. Furthermore it will show the market developments resulting from the public discussion and corresponding trends in preservation.

16:15 - 16:50
Microorganisms as tools for the cosmetic research and development of cosmetic products
Fabio Apone, VitaLab Srl. /Arterra Bioscience Srl

Unicellular organisms (or micro-organisms which include bacteria, microalgae and fungi) have a huge biotechnological potential for producing valuable substances for the food, pharmacy and cosmetic industries, as well as for biotechnological processes. Recombinant microorganisms have been used for years by pharmaceutical companies to produce plant natural compounds or proteins, and are now becoming more popular in the cosmetic industry too. 

The production of commercially important compounds by microorganisms have several advantages over the use of plant or animal material, as it does not include neither long purification steps, nor complex chemical reactions. One of the most successful examples of using microorganisms in the cosmetic industry is the production of Hyaluronic acid (HA). For this product microbial fermentation by using bacterial strains has become almost the only alternative for its production on large scale. Yeasts have been mostly exploited for the production of recombinant enzymes, such as lipases, which have been employed in the transformation of active cosmetic ingredients.

Besides bacteria and yeasts, more recently innovative processes and products have also been introduced in microalgal biotechnology to produce vitamins, proteins, fatty acids and many other useful compounds. For some specific applications, microalgae can be considered even a better system than bacteria and fungi for the production of interesting compounds for cosmetics. 

16:50 - 17:25
Sustainability of production processes based on microorganisms

Albert Soley, Lipotec S.A.

Sources of cosmetic actives are diverse and comprise basically chemically produced molecules, vegetal and animal extracts and actives based on microorganisms. In the last years, biobased products are featured in a remarkable amount of launches, being positioned in a significant number of cases on natural/organic brands. This positioning can be held since commonly non GMO are used, no harvesting from natural origin is needed and production processes are characterized by intensive production and clean processes using basically sugar and salts for the fermentation steps and physical processes such as centrifugation, clarification, purification and concentration not using aggressive nor hazardous chemicals.   

17:25 - 18:00        
Round table and discussion 


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