Hair Science in Cosmetic Research

Hair Science in Cosmetic Research

17 April 2013, 09:00 - 13:00

Espace 2000


Discover the latest developments and trends in the field of hair cosmetology. Evaluate new ingredients to develop original formulations. Discuss new in-vitro techniques to study hair biology and new models of clinical trials to evaluate the efficacy & safety of cosmetic products and nutritional supplements for hair treatment.

09:00 - 09:15
Introduction by the chairs
Fabio Rinaldi (IHRF) and Tiziana Mennini (CEC Editore)

09:15 - 10:00
Hair Care and Hair Cosmetics
Ramon Grimalt, University of Barcelona, E

Hair care products represent one of the most important classes of cosmetics that are used by the consumers. These products can be divided into categories according to their chemical formulations and also according to their action, for example cleansing, increase manageability, softening, thickening, curling, straightening and adding or removing colours. Since these cosmetic products employ both chemical formulations and physical modalities there is, at anytime, potential for temporary adverse effects on hair fibbers and scalp skin.  Some of the damage by the improper use of cosmetics or styling include trichorrhexis nodosa, split ends, heat damage, bubble hair, and mechanical damage. 

Also the external weathering factors including humidity, wind, sea-salt, dust, and pollution also contribute to the cuticular hair damage, especially in previously (cosmetically) damaged hair or in particular hair alterations as those seen in dysplasic hair. 

In this presentation we will focus on:

  • what cosmetics can do for normal hair
  • how they can help on already damaged hair
  • what kind of damage hair cosmetics can inflict to healthy hair when used improperly
  • what is new in the field of hair cosmetology

10:00 - 10:45 
Clinical evaluations of hair cosmetics and nutritional supplements
Fabio Rinaldi, International Hair Research Foundation, I

Cosmetics and nutritional supplements may have a very important role in hair and scalp treatment. Sometime cosmetic and natural active principles have a real therapeutic efficacy in women and men suffering from hair loss (telogen effluvium or androgenic alopecia) and scalp diseases, and many patients prefer natural and safety treatments rather than pharmaceutical treatments. Cosmetic treatments may also improve the hair beauty.

One of the most important feature of hair cosmetics and hair nutritional supplements is to be clinically tested to be sure about their efficacy and safety .

The goal of this presentation is to propose some models of clinical trials to evaluate the efficacy and safety of cosmetic and nutritional supplements in hair treatment. We will consider the use of specific noninvasive techniques  in vivo (dermatoscopy,  confocal microscopy, immunohystochemical evaluations) according to the most significant and standardized studies.  We will propose different clinical studies to evaluate topic hair treatment, topic treatment for scalp diseases, and nutritional supplement for hair care.  We will discuss these trials considering the goal of each study, time and costs of realization. This presentation will be useful to all the experts involved in the development of an haircare product.

11:15 - 12:00
In vitro techniques to study hair biology
Michael Paul Philpott, Queen Mary College University of London, UK

In 1990 we published our paper on human hair growth in vitro describing a model for culturing human hair follicles in vitro. Cultured human hair follicles have proven an excellent model to investigate many aspects of hair growth and metabolism, hair fibre formation and anagen to catagen transition. Development of cell culture models and immortalised cell lines from balding and non-balding scalp and development of new 3D models based on organotypic cell culture have appeared in which researchers combine cellular components of hair follicle in attempts to model the structure of the hair follicle.  These models  clearly demonstrate proof of principle that (a) immortalised cell lines can be generated from skin glands and appendages (b) they retain many characteristics of their primary cell of origin and (c) along with primary cells they can be placed into complex organotypic cultures to mimic three-dimensional nature of the parent tissue. These can be benchmarked against known hair growth regulatory factors and ultimately will serve as potential high throughput screens for furthering our understanding of the cellular mechanisms involved in hair growth and to establish the activity of new hair regulatory molecules. 

12:00 - 12.45
Main ingredients in hair care
Sandra Vadé, Chemist, University of Guingamp, F

Damaged hair, dry hair, coloured hair, oily hair, thin hair, dull hair, curly hair... so many kinds of hair! To respond to customer’s needs, the hair care market must be more and more sophisticated and the product-creator has to be imaginative and also technical and efficient. 

Polluted environment, personal activities, daily care such as cleansing, brushing, styling, colouring and heat systems contribute to damaged hair. On first use the consumer is waiting for products which repair, protect the hair and bring softness and brightness. The hair reflects well-being and health, so its appearance is very important.

To help developers in their work, a large quantity of ingredients are available among raw materials. Each one has its main activity but all of them must help hair find its own quality and beauty. 

Having a good view on the hair market, I'll present the “trendy” ingredients used in hair care according to the different needs of customers: normal, dry, thin, ethnic and mixed hair...By checking the characteristics and the needs of each hair’s type I will point out some ingredients, their action and their use in formulas.

12:45 - 13:00
Chairs conclusion 


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