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Milan prepares to welcome the world's cosmetic industry in March 2011

22 Nov 2010

The Italian cosmetics and toiletries industry is booming. Worth a reported €9.1 billion  it is the third biggest in Europe, behind only France (€12.8 billion) and Germany (€10.5 billion). And with Milan’s reputation as the business fashion capital of the continent, it’s not surprising that after seven years away, the city has been chosen to host the next instalment of in-cosmetics, the leading personal care ingredients exhibition, next year. 

Promising to be as exciting as last year’s record-breaking event in Paris, the 2011 show will take place on 29 – 31 March at the Fiera Rho exhibition centre in the heart of the city. Already the largest ever show in terms of floor space, the exhibition will play host to more than 500 world-class suppliers of new and innovative cosmetic ingredients and services, as well as leading testing laboratories, software providers, industry associations and publishing houses.

Highlighting the importance of the event, all stand space for 2011 was booked on-site at last year’s event, however, the organisers have expanded the area to meet the demands of eager exhibitors, signalling a recovered and revived outlook for the cosmetics industry following last year’s recession.  

Industry heavyweights such as DSM, Croda, Dow Chemical and Rhodia will naturally have a presence alongside smaller first-time exhibitors from China, Italy, India and South Korea. Key Italian distributors, such as Faravelli Group, L.F. Castelli and Variati will also be making the most of the exhibition taking place on home soil. 

in-cosmetics Exhibition Director Lucy Gillam, commented: “Last year’s show was the biggest event ever, so we certainly set the bar very high, but we’re extremely confident that we will match if not exceed expectations for the Milan show. Our exhibitors are, as always, of the highest quality and the educational programme is certainly shaping up well. We have a really compelling line-up of speakers already confirmed to present on some of the hottest topics, which will no doubt provoke some lively debate amongst visitors.”

Dubbed a three-day ‘training centre’ for the industry, the show’s educational programme will offer a wide range of presentations, workshops and features to enhance visitors’ commercial, scientific and technical knowledge. Regulatory, Scientific and Innovation Seminars will take place alongside Formulation Workshops and Marketing Trends Presentations whilst the ever-popular in-focus and the Innovation Zone will once again be key features on the exhibition floor.

More than just an exhibition

A programme of Regulatory Seminars will provide delegates with thoughtful, educational insights into the movement of legislation including the current impact of future regulatory amendments in Europe and China. Dr. Annelie Struessman, Technical Director of CONUSBAT and experts from Beiersdorf and Henkel will lead the first session – Safety Assessment for Cosmetics in Europe - taking place on 29 March from 09h30 to 13h30. The seminar will outline the challenges and legal requirements for safety assessment and provide practical guidelines for the design, preparation and maintenance of Product Information Files (PIF) and Cosmetic Product Safety Reports (CPSRs). 

China is also a key issue on the regulatory agenda of cosmetics companies today. Last summer, the SFDA published several guidelines and measures in a move to reorganise the supervision of cosmetic products in the country. Dr. Alain Khaiat, President of Seers Consulting and Vice-President of the ASEAN Cosmetic Association, and a panel of key industry experts, will aim to shed some light on this new legislative framework during the Chinese Cosmetic Regulations seminar on 29 March from 14h30 to18h00.

There will be a series of Scientific Seminars at this year’s show delving into two of the industry’s most topical issues; Skin ageing – from functional impairment to cosmetic solutions and nanotechnologies and biotechnologies in cosmetics. Organised by CEC Editore and HPC Magazine respectively, the seminars will gather together a range of international specialists keen to share their expertise and knowledge with delegates in the above areas. 

On 30 March 2011 at 09h30 – 13h30 Skin ageing – from functional impairment to cosmetic solutions will look at the latest research in key cellular and biochemical changes associated with skin ageing. The most recent methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of anti-ageing treatments will also be examined, as will the issue of oxidative stress and its testing by molecular probes. Other areas set to be covered include optimal dermal delivery for anti-ageing actives and the latest innovation in actives and formulation.

Among those presenting will be Luigi Rigano from Studio Rigano, Anthony Rawlings from AVR Consulting, Prof. Enzo Berardesca from the San Gallicano Dermatological Institute in Italy, Prof. Dr. Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions and Stefano Manfredini from the Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche at the University of Ferrara, Italy. 

Also on 30 March 2011, between 14h00 – 18h00, Nanotechnologies and biotechnologies in cosmetics will delve into the practical applications and opportunities as well as the safety of cosmetic nano-formulations. Consumer perception and industry response to the techniques will be examined along with the regulatory framework in Europe. Finally, the seminar will take a look at whether biotechnology represents an alternative to animal model testing. 

Experts confirmed to present include Dr. Gerhard J Nohynek, Scientific Head of the Worldwide Safety Department at L’Oréal, Dr. Joachim Kreysa, Unit Head of ECVAM (European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods) European Commission – DG Joint Research Centre, Dr Steffi Friedrichs, Director General at the Nanotechnology Industries Association, Dr. Florian Schellauf, Issue Manager Technical & Regulatory Affairs for COLIPA and Dr. Fred Zuelli Researcher at Mibelle A.G. Biochemistry.

The Formulation Workshops will provide lively, interactive and controversial insights into the challenges and issues high up on the formulators’ radar. Prof. Dr. Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions will present on From Active Ingredient to Active Formulation in 5 Simple Steps [29 March, 14h00 – 18h00].  Delegates attending the workshop will be given guidance on how to select the best actives for optimum skin delivery, identify the size of the delivery gap from the required minimum effective concentration and select the most appropriate skin delivery system. Attendees will also learn how to design the right formulation to deliver the actives and perform a clinical trial to assess the product’s efficacy. 

Judi Beerling from Organic Monitor will then look at Emulsifiers & Surfactants: The Natural Options [31 March 09h30 – 13h00]. The new workshop will act as a practical guide for companies looking to formulate natural and organic personal care products with alternatives to synthetic emulsifiers and surfactants. With a growing number of companies trying to avoid SLS / SLES and related synthetic substances, there is growing interest in natural & organic alternatives. However, what options are available? What are the associated technical & formulation issues? What materials are cost-effective, and what are the related safety issues?

The in-focus feature, sponsored by Brazilian natural organic ingredients supplier Beraca, attracts over two-thirds of in-cosmetics visitors each year.  With “sustainable beauty” as the main theme, the 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new product concepts to sourcing, formulation, industrial processes and packaging. Showcasing a range of innovative eco-designed product prototypes, the feature will seek to define the core principles of sustainable development in the beauty industry.

As ever, this year’s Innovation Zone, sponsored by ISP, will be full to bursting with innovation and inspiration, with the key theme in the end-product section being anti-ageing. At in-cosmetics 2011, visitors will be able to discover the latest finished products on the market from Europe, Asia, USA and Latin America, sourced by Mintel’s team of beauty trend spotters. 

In addition, the feature will also house some of the latest ingredient launches from exhibitors, enabling visitors to quickly identify the very latest launches and provide ideas for their next NPD or marketing campaign. 

A wealth of facts and figures, case studies and advice will be presented at the highly popular Marketing Trends Presentations at the show this year. Conducted by renowned international market research companies, brands and consultancies, the sessions are aimed at sparking off new marketing ideas for companies keen to set themselves apart from the competition.  

Sustainability, green chemistry and ethical sourcing will feature prominently in the programme, with two round-tables and a presentation from Organic Monitor already confirmed. Kline and Euromonitor International will reveal the latest ingredients and beauty trends whilst the founders of niche brands Bulldog and Davina Peace will share their secrets for success in live interviews. How cosmetics companies can draw inspiration from other industries such as professional hair care and cosmetic surgery as well as changes in online and offline shopping behaviour will also be among the subjects discussed. 

Innovation Seminars provide an opportunity for suppliers to highlight the very latest ingredients and formulation techniques they are currently pioneering.  Traditionally extremely popular with visitors, the seminars last 30 minutes and provide a platform for companies to share their information and knowledge with a highly captive audience. Visitors can choose from 44 sessions covering a wide variety of topics including the latest developments in anti-ageing treatments, nature based emulsifiers and ethically sourced ingredients.

A new online community tool - CONNECT - will also be introduced for the Milan show. It provides exhibitors and pre-registered visitors with a diary, a detailed search facility and a fully integrated email system to network and arrange meetings. Users can also add a personal profile and save seminars, products or any other website content of interest, to their favourites. This will prove to be an invaluable tool for visitors and exhibitors at the show.

World-class exhibitors

Among the 500-plus exhibitors set to showcase their latest innovations and scientific developments to the visitors is Arch Personal Care Products [stand F50]. The company will be highlighting its patent-pending Lotus Zymbiozome® Fermentum (Assigned INCI Name: Water (and) Lotus japonicus Symbiosome Extract), an innovative ingredient which, when formulated into skin care products, demonstrates unique effects in controlling skin colour and tone. 

In addition, the company will be showcasing NAB® Rhodiola Extract (Assigned INCI Name: Water (and) Pentylene Glycol and Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract), an exciting, innovative new ingredient for skin care products offering ‘adaptogenic thermal stress protection’. Rhodiola Rosea is a robust plant native to the arctic regions of Tibet and Eastern Siberia. The plant contains protective properties, giving it the ability to survive, adapt and even thrive in such conditions. NAB® Rhodiola Extract assists the skin in adapting and reducing the stress incurred when it is exposed to varying temperature fluctuations.

Also showcasing a number of brand new product launches will be BASF [stand L40]. The company’s product range includes polymers, UV filters, effect pigments, actives, hair colorants, stabilizers, and surfactants. At in-cosmetics 2011, BASF will be presenting Tinosorb S Aqua, a new UV filter for the water phase, with the same high-tech broad spectrum technology as Tinosorb S. In addition, the company will be highlighting its MultiReflections Soft Sparkle, Pigments, provide elegant colour travel and sophisticated soft sparkle effects.

Burgundy Botanical Extracts’ [stand F74] latest launch, Botany Care, will be on show at in-cosmetics 2011. The range offers the high quality botanical extract (Botany) and purified extracts (BotanySelect): Aloe Vera, Centella, Hibiscus, Licorice, Harpagophytum p., Chamomilla, enriched organic acids from flowers or fruits, Nettle and Echinacea with studies of efficiency. All the ingredients are supported by accurate scientific research and documentation, and are designed to bring visible benefits.

On stand L30, Cognis will be highlighting its Lamesoft ®Care products. Lamesoft Care is a high performance wax dispersion that is suited for surfactant based skin and hair care applications. Its micronised lipid system offers excellent skin and hair conditioning properties. Particularly strong effects are achieved in combination with cationic polymers. Lamesoft® Care fits into marketing concepts where a white, fine marbleized appearance is desired. Due to its ether based lipids Lamesoft® Care can be used in a wide pH-range between 4-11 and therefore in all kinds of body rinse off applications.

With the Dermosoft® range, Dr. Straetmans [stand L79] is a pioneer in using multifunctional additives with high performance antimicrobial properties to formulate mild and safe cosmetics. With decades of experience in preservation of all kinds of products, a tailor made solution is available for every product concept. Dr. Straetmans accompanies customers at each stage of product development, from concept through evaluation to finished product. Challenge tests are offered to ensure successful formulation projects with customers. The company’s Dermofeel® range will also be on show on the stand.

Evonik [stand M40] will be highlighting its comprehensive range of products which conditioners and thickeners for hair care products, emulsifiers for creams and lotions, secondary surfactants, emollients and active ingredients. Amongst those on show will be the SK-influx range of skin identical lipid concentrates and Skinmimics,a unique blend of new long chain Ceramides and newly identified Sphingokines®, which are ideal for mature skin as they provide protection, regeneration and prevention.

Fenchem Biotek [stand A60] is a science-based company, which specialises in developing and manufacturing a wide range of active ingredients for cosmetic and personal care products. The company has recently launched a series of innovative products, including HyaMax® Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocovet® Tocopherols, CellMotive™ Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin C series. Fenchem has also invested in botanical extracts, such as G-Tea™ Green tea Extract, Grapurit ™ Grape Seed Extract, Ginktone™ and Ginkgo Biloba Extract.

Induchem AG’s [stand E56] business is based on carrier systems and active ingredients. Its product portfolio consists mainly of exfoliants, sun care products and additives. Amongst the ranges on show will be Uniprotect PT-3, a bioactive complex for the protection of skin proteins, Unirepair T-43, a bioactive complex to counteract environmental skin damage and Unisooth EG-28, a synergistic complex to inhibit skin irritation.

KCI [stand P34] specialises in raw materials for personal care products such as shampoo, conditioner, body wash, sunscreen cream, face moisturiser and nail polish. At in-cosmetics 2011 the company will be highlighting its Cationic Surfactants, Amine Amide series, Polyquat and Guarquat series and its high qualified resin for nail lacquer. 

Lubrizol [stand K40], with its Noveon Consumer Specialties Division, is a leading manufacturer of advanced specialty chemicals for personal care products. in-cosmetics 2011 will see the company highlight its Carbopol range of acrylic polymers, urethanes, silicones, high-quality derivatives, lanoline and lanoline derivatives, formulation additives such as nonionic emulsifiers, alcohol ethoxylates and isopropyl esters.

Zahra Rosewater Company [stand C78] specialises in the production of 100% pure and hydro-distilled essential oils and hydrolytes that are widely used for the manufacture of cosmetics, fragrances and pharmaceuticals. The company is a leading grower, distiller and exporter of organic Damask roses, focusing mainly on the production of high-quality rose products that bear the British Soil Association organic seal of approval. At in-cosmetics the company will be showcasing its Organic Rosewater and Organic Rose Oil.

Lucy Gillam, Exhibition Director concluded: “There’s certainly a real buzz surrounding the 2011 event. All the ‘ingredients’ are there for another record-breaking event, so we’ll be doing everything we can to ensure this is once again, a fantastic show for both exhibitors and visitors alike.”

in-cosmetics attracts leading ingredient and raw material suppliers enabling visitors to discover new, innovative products and services whilst boosting their business, scientific and technical knowledge. Attendees will benefit from all the major players being under one roof and meeting with experts whilst discussing the next big trends in the growing personal care market. 

For further details about in-cosmetics, visit www.in-cosmetics.com. To get the latest news on personal care ingredients, follow us on Twitter at www.twitter.com/incosmetics or to join the debate with fellow industry experts, go to www.in-cosmetics.com/linkedin

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For further press information please contact Naomi Allsop or Julie Longton at the in-cosmetics group press office on +44 (0) 20 7240 2444 or e-mail in-cosmetics@stormcom.co.uk