Solar beauty is a concept that encompasses much more than sun protection products. It is an area that manufacturers across the cosmetics spectrum are investigating with the prospect of many new and innovative formulations on the horizon. Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics, finds out more with some thought-provoking examples from Mintel’s gnpd platform.
At next year’s in-cosmetics show, the in-focus theme will be Solar Beauty, in recognition of the huge and growing interest in sun protection. Jacques Sebag owner of Re-Source!, who is helping to stage in-focus explains the thinking: “Solar Beauty is at the crossroads of the most exciting challenges: anti-ageing under extreme conditions {brands are talking DNA and stem cells protection}, highly sensorial textures {oil-like textures were up 90% last year}, complex and stringent regulation {new US monograph}delicate safety issues {nano-particles, sunscreen stability} working at the frontier between public health and beauty {skin cancer campaigns}. As the race for higher SPFs intensifies, the idea is to explore where the industry will be going in the development of new solar products.” This in-focus feature will take on a different look. Instead of featuring exhibitors, outside consulting experts and companies will bring innovative and interactive objects and data to play with. Meanwhile, exhibitor projects and innovations will be highlighted on a solar trail throughout the show. “The goal is to be educational, inspiring and entertaining,” affirms Sebag.
Within the suncare market specifically, Mintel has noted an increasing number of relaunches during 2011. This trend is likely to continue in 2012, especially in the US, following the announcement of new regulations on SPF and UVA by the FDA. “Companies will need to change their labeling in order to reflect the changes, such as the upper limit being SPF50 and claims such as waterproof, sunblock and instant protection no longer being allowed,” explains Nica Lewis, global skincare analyst, Mintel.
Mintel expects new launches to reflect key consumer trends in terms of usage. In 2011, there has been a 3% jump in the number of UK women using high protection sunscreens, compared to a 4% drop amongst French women opting for higher SPFs. “However, a larger proportion {one third} of French women use higher SPFs, suggesting that they are more educated in their usage of sun protection products,” points out Lewis.
Mintel’s consumer research shows that consumers have no idea how much product to apply and are more likely to under- than overdose. An innovative, but extremely simple solution comes from Boots for its Soltan Once Dry-Touch Transparent Spray SPF15 product, which states that one bottle contains six applications for the average body size. Perhaps Boots should go a stage further by having transparent packaging with markers showing exactly how much product to use. Although Soltan Once has been around for some years, the range has been extended, and is aimed at those who do not have the time or inclination to reply sunscreen when out and about. Boots claims that one application allows for up to eight hours sun exposure and 40 minutes water exposure, although the usual rules apply if the user towels off after swimming.
Another innovative way to encourage people to use sun protection correctly comes in the form of Apps providing information to help consumers stay safe in the sun. La Roche-Posay Anthelios has My UV Check, which is part of its public awareness campaign to provide education on sun safety and the importance of skin cancer screenings. The App tells the weather and individualized sun risk diagnosis, how to check skin for suspicious lesions and moles, product recommendations and how to find the nearest store. Coppertone MYUVAlert for the iPhone provides similar information, as well as coupons and sun protection tips. Meanwhile, SunSafety is a skin prevention app, providing current weather information for any US city along with useful, up to date sun exposure danger information with advice on how to protect oneself and family.
New ingredients for suncare
“Previously, suncare used to be about providing the right SPF levels, but now it’s about much more,” maintains Lewis, who has noted a number of unusual ingredients being used in new sun protection launches. For example, Bio Beauté by Nuxe has brought out a medium protection non-comedogenic product made with 100% mineral sunscreens and UVA and UVB protection. So far so good, but what makes this product different is the inclusion of chaulmoogra oil to encourage the appearance of an even, lasting tan. “It is a rare ingredient to be found in suncare NPD as it was at one time important in the treatment of leprosy,” states Lewis.
Yogurt is a key ingredient in Korres Suncare Organic Edible Yogurt, a natural suncare range inspired by the ancient Greek tradition of applying yogurt to sunburnt skin. The yogurt contains proteins and lactose to increase the moisture levels of the epidermis and its cool, soft texture is said to leave dry skin soothed and refreshed, helping to relieve and heal sunburn.
Price is no object for the new Valmont Sun Cellular Solution, described by Lewis as the most expensive suncare product on Mintel’s database at $226.26. The luxury positioning is justified by high performance ingredients, including triple DNA and liposome RNA, said to provide the skin with elements essential to its regeneration and nutrition, and silicon D2 complex, which is meant to allow active repair of the cells and skin fibres during sun exposure.
For stand-out appeal, Own Sun Care Active Block SPF30 cannot be beaten. This all-mineral product with ZinClear-IM and clear mineral protection comes in an outer orange ball which opens to reveal a dome-shaped “bomb” described as having easy skin coverage. It is aimed at active adults and energetic children.
Meanwhile, UV protection in facial skincare launches is on the increase, according to Mintel. In 2011, 20% of facecare launches had UV protection, up from 13% in 2008. Lewis predicts that BASF’s tinosorb, a broadscreen suncreen, could become important, especially once it wins FDA approval.
* Mintel will participate at in-cosmetics 2012 Marketing Trends presentations, taking place in Barcelona on 17-19 April. For more details go to www.in-cosmetics.com
Published in HAPPI, www.happi.com/